Day 4: Happy Camp to Lindeman City
Great weather continues the next morning. A stupendous view of mountains and glaciers bathed in sunshine spreads before the open tent door. Its going to be a short walk today, ending at Lindeman City, the traditional land end of the Chilkoot trail, taking a boat to Dawson City.
Crater Lake, just below the summit must be a big settling pond as the rivers sparkled clear here compared to the milky silt laden glacier runoff rivers on the west side of the Chilkoot Pass.
Immediately after Happy Camp, the trail passed through a narrow canyon before opening up into Long Lake. We stopped for lunch at this overlook just before the trail descended to the narrows which separated Long Lake from Deep Lake.
More gold rush artifacts surround the lake. This metal boat frame has been left to grow in to the vegetation. Faded strips of red canvas lie in tatters. I spy some blueberries growing nearby – they are very tart, even for my taste, needing more sun to bring out the sweetness.
The trail is generally hard packed and quiet dry, my knees have recovered from yesterdays tough climb, the sun is shining, my heart dances. A deep cleft splits the rock and the Moose River weaves around the boulders and rock below. In the far distance, Lindeman Lake glows.
Camp appears suddenly in the midst of a dry forest. When did the trees reappear? Cut stumps and burn stumps mix shoulder to shoulder with the regrowth. There are two tenting options here: after a quick inspection of the Upper Cabin, we look for a site with more breeze. Its hot in the valley, shorts and T-shirts enough compared to yesterdays polypro underwear.
Cemetery at Lindeman City. With an estimated population of 4,000 during the winter of 1897 – 1898, Lindeman City was a frenzy of activity as gold seeks set up tents, sawed wood and built boats waiting for spring break up. By the fall of 1899, it was virtually deserted except for the few who never left.
There were very few people about – except for the buzzing of flies, the calm was undisturbed. A picture perfect day capped with a pretty sunset. Bed calls by 10pm.
8.8 km / 5.5miles – walk time about 4 hrs